How to: Hemming a Shirt Tutorial | The Sewing Studio: A Step-by-Step Guide

Have you ever had the hem of your favorite t-shirt or garment come undone? It can be frustrating, but the good news is you don’t need a fancy serger or cover stitch machine to fix it! With just your standard sewing machine, a double needle, and a few simple tools, you can repair your garment and achieve a professional finish. Let’s dive into how you can tackle this common sewing challenge.

Why Use a Double Needle?

A double needle is a fantastic tool for hemming garments like t-shirts because it mimics the look of professional stitching. On the top side of the fabric, it creates two parallel rows of stitches, while on the underside, it forms a zigzag pattern. This zigzag allows for stretch in the hem, preventing the seam from popping—something that often happens when using a straight stitch on stretchy fabrics.

What You’ll Need

Before you begin, gather these supplies:

• Your garment (e.g., a t-shirt with a fallen hem)
• A double needle (size depends on your fabric; 3mm is great for general use)
• Polyester thread (avoid cotton thread for stretchy fabrics)
• Pins
• Scissors
• A hot ruler (optional but helpful for precise folding)
• An iron
• A walking foot (optional for thicker or tricky fabrics)

Watch the Tutorial

If you’re a visual learner or want to see these steps in action, check out our YouTube video tutorial: How to: Hemming a Shirt Turtorial | The Sewing Studio. In the video, we walk you through each step, sharing tips and tricks to make your hemming project a success. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more sewing tutorials! 

Step 1: Preparing Your Hem

1. Press the Hem: Use a hot ruler to fold and press your hem evenly. For most t-shirts, folding up about ½ inch works well. The hot ruler helps ensure consistency all around.
2. Pin the Hem: Secure the folded hem with pins. Pinning from the outside ensures that the hem stays smooth and doesn’t roll as you sew.

Step 2: Setting Up Your Machine

1. Install the Double Needle: Replace your single needle with the double needle. Ensure it’s inserted correctly with the flat side facing the back.
2. Thread Your Machine:
• Use two spools of thread (ideally in matching colors). One spool threads as usual, while the second follows the same path but skips any tension guides near the needle.
• Manually thread each needle—automatic threaders won’t work with double needles.
3. Adjust Machine Settings:
• Select a straight stitch.
• If your machine has a twin needle setting (like on Baby Lock machines), enable it to prevent selecting stitches that could damage your machine.

Step 3: Sewing the Hem

1. Place your garment under the presser foot with the hem facing up and aligned with your desired guide (e.g., the edge of your presser foot).
2. Begin sewing slowly, ensuring that both layers of fabric stay flat and smooth.
3. If you notice bunching or gathering, consider switching to a walking foot to help feed both layers evenly.
4. Sew all around the hem, backstitching at the end to secure your threads.

Step 4: Finishing Touches

1. Trim any loose threads and inspect your work. The top should have two neat rows of stitching, while the underside will show a zigzag pattern.
2. Don’t forget to switch back to a single needle after completing your project and reset any machine settings.

Tips for Success

• Choose the Right Needle: For stretchy knits like t-shirts, use a ballpoint or stretch double needle to avoid damaging fibers.
• Practice First: If you’re new to double needles, practice on scrap fabric before working on your garment.
• Test Your Tension: Adjust tension settings as needed to avoid puckering or uneven stitches.

Repairing hems doesn’t have to be daunting or expensive! With these steps, you can restore your garments quickly and professionally—all from the comfort of your sewing space. Happy sewing!