Flying geese blocks are a staple in quilting, but they can be intimidating for beginners. Today, we’re going to walk you through the process of creating both single and multiple flying geese blocks efficiently. With these tips and tricks, you’ll be able to achieve perfect piecing every time.

Why Flying Geese Can Be Challenging

Many quilters find flying geese challenging because they require precision and accuracy to maintain those sharp points. However, with the right techniques, you can master this block and enhance your quilts with ease.

What You’ll Need

Before starting, gather these essential supplies:

• Fabric for the Base and Triangles: Choose contrasting colors for visibility.
• Rotary Cutter and Ruler: For cutting fabric accurately.
• Scissors: For trimming threads and small pieces of fabric.
• Pins: To hold fabric in place while sewing.
• Erasable Marking Tool: For drawing diagonal lines without leaving residue.
• Sewing Machine with a General-Purpose Foot: Ideal for precision sewing.

Watch the Tutorial

Want to see these steps in action? Check out our YouTube video tutorial: How to Sew a Perfect Flying Geese Block. In the video, we demonstrate each step in detail, from preparing your fabric to finishing touches. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more quilting inspiration!

Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric

1. Cutting the Fabric: For a 2x4 flying geese, cut two triangles (2.5 inches x 4.5 inches) and one base piece (2.5 inches x 4.5 inches).
2. Marking the Fabric: Draw a diagonal line across each triangle using an erasable marking tool.

Step 2: Sewing the First Triangle

1. Aligning the Triangle: Place one triangle right sides together with the base piece, aligning the diagonal line with the edge of the base.
2. Sewing the Triangle: Sew along the diagonal line, just to the right of it, to ensure a smooth press later.
3. Trimming Excess Fabric: Cut ¼ inch away from the seam to reduce bulk.

Step 3: Pressing and Adding the Second Triangle

1. Pressing the Seam: Press the seam to set it, then flip it back to create the flying geese shape.
2. Adding the Second Triangle: Align the second triangle with the base, ensuring it mirrors the first triangle. Sew and press as before.

Step 4: Squaring Up Your Flying Geese

1. Using a Ruler: Use a ruler with a 45° mark to ensure your flying geese is square and the points are centered.
2. Trimming to Size: Trim excess fabric, maintaining a ¼ inch seam allowance above the point.

Making Four Flying Geese at Once

For efficiency, you can make four flying geese simultaneously:

1. Stacking Fabric: Place two sets of triangles right sides together and draw a diagonal line through both.
2. Sewing Both Sides: Sew ¼ inch away from the diagonal line on both sides.
3. Cutting Apart: Cut along the diagonal line to separate the pieces.
4. Pressing and Trimming: Press each piece and trim to size as before.

Tips for Success

• Always press your seams as you go to reduce bulk and ensure a smooth finish.
• Use a walking foot or even feed foot on your sewing machine to help guide the fabric smoothly.
• Practice joining strips and sewing corners on scrap fabric before working on your quilt.

With these steps and tips, you’ll be able to create perfect flying geese blocks that enhance your quilts. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced quilter, mastering this technique will take your projects to the next level.

For more quilting tutorials and inspiration, don’t forget to check out our YouTube channel—happy quilting!

Zippers can be intimidating, but they don’t have to be! Whether you’re making bags, totes, or other projects, mastering a few zipper techniques can take your sewing skills to the next level. Today, we’re sharing some of our favorite tips and tricks to help you install zippers with ease and achieve a polished, professional finish every time.

Why Zippers Can Be Tricky

Many sewists find zippers challenging because they require precision and alignment. From attaching zipper tabs to sewing straight seams, there are several steps where things can go awry. But with the right tools and techniques, you’ll be able to tackle zippers confidently and even enjoy the process!

What You’ll Need

Before we dive into the tips, make sure you have these supplies on hand:

• Nylon zipper (double-slide if needed)
• Scissors (not your good fabric scissors)
• Snips for trimming ends
• Polyester or multi-purpose thread (better durability than cotton thread)
• Rotary cutter and ruler for trimming edges
• Sewing machine with a general-purpose foot (like the Baby Lock J foot)

Watch the Tutorial

Want to see these tips in action? Watch our YouTube video tutorial: Zipper Tips and Tricks for Professional-Looking Projects. In the video, we demonstrate each step in detail, from reattaching zipper tabs to sewing straight seams. Don’t forget to like and subscribe for more sewing inspiration!

Tip #1: Reattaching a Zipper Tab

Have you ever accidentally pulled the zipper tab off the tape? It happens to all of us! Here’s how to reattach it with ease:

1. Cut Out Teeth on One Side: Use scissors to remove 3–4 teeth from one side of the zipper tape. This creates an indention that makes it easier to slide the tab back on.

2. Align the Zipper Tab: Slide one side of the tape into the tab first, then align the other side. Make sure both sides are even before pulling the tab onto the tape.

3. Test Alignment: Once the tab is on, test it by sliding it back and forth to ensure smooth movement.

Pro Tip: Always cut off any metal stops at the end of nylon zippers before starting your project to avoid breaking needles or damaging your machine during sewing.

Tip #2: Cutting Zipper Tape to Size

When cutting your zipper tape down to size, make sure it’s about an inch longer than your project on both sides. This extra length prevents the zipper tab from sliding off during assembly and gives you room to maneuver while sewing.

1. Move the zipper tab into your project area before trimming excess tape.

2. Use a rotary cutter and ruler for clean, straight cuts across nylon zippers (this won’t work for metal zippers).

3. To prevent accidentally pulling off the tab later, sew across both ends of the zipper tape after trimming.

Tip #3: Sewing Straight Seams with Zippers

Achieving straight seams when attaching zippers is one of the most important steps for a professional finish. Here’s how to do it:

1. Right Sides Together: Place the right side of your fabric against the right side of your zipper tape before sewing. This ensures everything will align properly when flipped right-side out later.

2. Align with Your Foot: Use your general-purpose foot (such as a Baby Lock J foot) and align your fabric along its inside edge for consistent spacing from the zipper teeth. Move your needle all the way to one side (usually left) to avoid sewing over teeth directly.

3. Adjust Stitch Length: If working with thicker fabrics or stabilizers, increase your stitch length slightly (e.g., from 2.5mm to 3mm or 3.5mm) for smoother stitching.

Tip #4: Topstitching for a Clean Finish

Topstitching is essential for keeping fabric away from zipper teeth and giving your project a polished look:

1. After attaching the zipper, fold fabric away from the teeth and press it flat with an iron if necessary.

2. Sew a straight topstitch along the edge of your fabric using matching thread for a subtle finish or contrasting thread for decorative flair.

3. Keep stitches even by aligning your fabric edge with your presser foot guide.

Bonus Tips for Bag Projects

If you’re installing zippers in bags or totes, here are some additional tips:

• Use polyester or multi-purpose thread instead of cotton thread for added durability—especially if you plan on carrying heavy items in your bag.

• Ensure that any indents or trimmed sections of zipper tape are outside of your project area to avoid issues with sliding tabs or weak seams.

• Always double-check alignment before sewing—this saves time and prevents mistakes.

Finishing Touches

Once your zipper is installed, trim any excess tape and square up your project edges using a rotary cutter and ruler. Move the zipper tab into place before trimming to avoid losing it off the ends again! For added security, sew across both ends of the zipper tape after trimming.

With these tips and tricks, you’ll be able to install zippers like a pro! Whether you’re working on a simple pouch or a detailed bag project, these techniques will help you achieve clean lines and functional designs every time.

For more sewing tutorials and inspiration, don’t forget to subscribe to our YouTube channel—happy stitching!

As you use your iron on various sewing projects, you will undoubtably find the bottom of the iron dirtied with a range of nastiness. In this post, we discuss how we clean the classroom irons at The Sewing Studio and the supplies and steps you can follow to clean your sewing iron.

What is on my iron?

Several of the materials we use while sewing can have residual amounts of adhesive, dyes, and other materials used during the material manufacturing process. Your iron may also pickup reminents of burned non-cotton fabric. Additionally, depending on your local water and type of water you put in your iron or spray bottle, you may also find calcium and other hard water deposits on your iron's sole plate or hot plate.

How do you clean an iron?

Caution: Cleaning an iron requires turning the iron on to a high setting, then cleaning the hot plate with a cotton rag and iron cleaner. This process is dangerous and there is a risk of serious burns. If you are not comfortable with this process or unable to safely handle a hot iron, please seek assistance. Clean an iron at your own risk.

1. Gather your equipment and supplies: iron, iron cleaner, and denim or terry cloth rags. For iron cleaner, we use Faultless Iron Cleaner or Magic Iron Cleaner.
2. Carefully review the instructions on your iron cleaner.
3. Empty any water from your iron.
4. Turn the iron on and set to hot (cotton) setting.
5. Apply iron cleaner to denim or terry cloth rag as directed by iron cleaner instructions.
6. Rub the rag with iron cleaner over the iron's hot plate in a circular motion.
7. Wipe iron hot plate with clear area of the rag or separate rag.
8. Place iron in a safe position, turn it off, and allow it to cool.

Items in this Entry:

• Faultless Iron Cleaner - https://amzn.to/3XmIvxQ
• Magic Iron Cleaner - https://thesewingstudio.com/shop/notions/magic-iron-cleaner-2oz/
• Black + Decker Classic (F67E-T) - https://amzn.to/4gkwH6T

Notes:

• All trademarks, logos, and brand names are the property of their respective owners.
• This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see our full terms and conditions.

Here at The Sewing Studio, we like our irons hot and heavy, which is why we recommend the Black + Decker Classic Traditional Steam Iron (F67E-T). This model is extremely useful for flattening cotton fabrics used in applique, crafting, embroidery, and quilting for several reasons:

First, the Classic has seven different temperature settings providing plenty of heat for removing wrinkles while requiring less downward pressure or pressing.

Second, a heavy-duty aluminum sole plate makes the iron weigh in at 3.9 lbs (1.78 kg) which also helps to remove wrinkles without requiring downward pressure from the user.

Lastly, the iron retails for an impressive $34.99 on the Black + Decker website and $29.99 at Amazon and Target.

Black + Decker Classic Specifications:

• Color: Black
• Dimensions: 9.4" x 4.8"
• Weight: 3.9 lbs
• Soleplate Material: Aluminum
• Steam Control: Yes
• Temperature Settings: Yes, seven levels
• Volts: 120V
• Wattage: 1100W
• Warranty: 2 Year Limited

Items in this Entry:

• Black + Decker Classic (F67E-T) - https://amzn.to/4gkwH6T
• Faultless Starch Premium Luxe - https://amzn.to/4ghCwBY

Notes:

• All trademarks, logos, and brand names are the property of their respective owners.
• This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, please see our full terms and conditions.

When it comes to sewing projects, what could be more perfect than a pocket? This guide is here to show you how to take your creations up a notch by incorporating a sleek and functional zipper pocket! Whether you're giving new life to a plain tote bag or upgrading an apron, adding a zipper pocket can bring both style and utility to your sewing endeavors. Let's dive into the step-by-step process and learn how to seamlessly integrate this into your projects!

Supplies You'll Need:

For this project, you won't need an exhaustive list of supplies. In fact, the essentials are quite simple!

1. The project you want to add the zipper pocket to (tote bag, apron, etc.).
2. A 14-inch zipper (color of your choice).
3. Two coordinating fabric pieces to create the pocket.

1. Creating Your Pocket Template:

Before we begin sewing, it's crucial to ensure we have the right dimensions for our pocket. 

1. Determine the desired size of the pocket slit on your project.
2. Add an inch to each side of the slit and at least an inch above it.
3. Consider a 1/2-inch width for the pocket slit, which works well with zippers.
4. Create a template with these dimensions, including a V-shaped cut at each end of the slit for folding.

Having a template on hand will make future pocket creations easier and more consistent.

2. Sewing the First Pocket Piece: 

1. Pin the pocket template onto the chosen spot of your project where you want the zipper slit to be.
2. Sew along the template's outline to create the pocket opening, pivoting at the corners.
3. Carefully snip open the fabric within the sewn lines, creating an opening for the zipper.

3. Preparing for the Zipper:

1. Turn your project inside out, flipping the fabric through the pocket opening.
2. Press the fabric around the opening, creating a clean edge.

4. Attaching the Zipper:

1. Center the zipper beneath the fabric, ensuring the zipper pull is away from your sewing machine's presser foot.
2. Use pins to secure the zipper in place, going from one side of the slit to the other while going underneath the zipper teeth.
3. Stitch along the edge of the fabric, attaching the zipper. Pivot at corners for accuracy.

5. Finishing Touches:

1. Snip the zipper ends to align with the fabric edges.
2. Align the second pocket fabric with the first making sure you have right sides together.
3. Stitch around the edges, starting with the top, then the bottom, and finally the sides. Pivot and maintain a consistent distance from the zipper.

6. Optional Finishing:

For an extra polished look, run a zigzag stitch along the edges of the pocket to prevent fraying. 

Congratulations! You've just transformed your project into a functional work of art with a chic zipper pocket. These pockets not only add utility but also a touch of sophistication to your creations. From totes to aprons, you can now enhance any sewing project with this versatile technique. Thanks for joining me in this sewing journey, and remember, creativity knows no bounds. Like and subscribe to our channel for more sewing inspiration and tutorials. Until next time, happy sewing!

Are you looking for a new hobby? Do you love to sew, or are you interested in learning how? If so, then sewing a pencil bag is the perfect project for you! Not only is it fairly simple and quick DIY to do, but it's also a great way to use up fabric scraps. Plus, once you're done, you'll have a cute and functional pencil bag that will last for years! So grab your sewing machine, and let's get started!

Materials:

• 2 - 8"x11" Main print of your choice
• 2 - 4"x12" Corresponding print of your choice
• 2 - 4"x6" Same corresponding print of your choice
• 1 - 2"x12" Same corresponding print of your choice
• 2 - 8"x11" Fusible fleece
• 1 - 2"x12" Fusible fleece
• 1 - 14" Soft zipper
• 1 - 6" x 10" Vinyl sheet

Need some guidance? Follow along with Natalie, the owner of The Sewing Studio with the video down below:

Let's Prep our Materials!

Step 1: Iron & Fuse your fleece to your main print.

Take one of your 8"x11" fusible fleece, "bumpy" side up (the bumps are the glue), and stack one of your 8"x11" main print material right side up onto your fleece piece. Take your iron and press the two materials together, fusing your fleece to your main print.

Repeat with the remaining 8"x11" piece of your main print and fusible fleece.

Repeat this same process as well, with your 2"x12" piece of your fusible fleece and corresponding print material.

Complete the same process with the remaining pieces, the two 4"x12" corresponding prints and the two 4"x6" corresponding prints, resulting in 4 total folded and pressed pieces.

Sandwich your vinyl in between one of your folded & pressed 4”x6” coordinating print and lay it under your presser foot. No special foot is needed. Move your needle slightly to the left to line your strip of corresponding print and vinyl where it will be parallel to the edge but not on the edge itself.  You want to top stitch all the layers together making sure to catch all the fabric.

Repeat this same process using your folded and pressed 4"x6" coordinating print, and sew to the other side of the vinyl. Take one of your folded and pressed 4"x12" coordinating print and repeat picking one of the remaining sides as the top. You will leave the raw edges exposed on the top right and left. Resulting in something like this:

Step 2: Add the Zipper.

At your sewing machine, lay your zipper face up.  Take the top finished edge of your vinyl piece and place it on the left side of your zipper.  You want to leave about an 1/8 of an inch between the top finished edge of your vinyl piece and the zipper teeth.

Sew down that side. For best results, have the zipper teeth lay just against the right side of your foot. Move the needle to the right, Spacing the top finished edge of the vinyl about an 1/8 of an inch from the zipper teeth. Drop the presser foot to hold these pieces in position. We want to make sure and catch both the fabric and the zipper tape with our thread. Adjusting as you go.  

Now take your 2”x12” corresponding print with the fusible fleece adhered to it and lay the fleece side up on top of your zipper, lining up the unfinished edge of the zipper and fleece piece together. 

Flip these pieces over so that the back of the zipper is facing up.  It is easier to line up and sew with the zipper on the top. The edges should still be lined up, if not adjust. 

Line the raw edge and zipper teeth against the left side of your foot. Make sure to move your needle back to center position or to the left of center slightly.  You want to sew about a ¼ inch seam.  Sew down this edge being mindful to keep straight as you go.

Once you’re done sewing the front vinyl piece to your zipper, you should be able to flip the coordinating print piece away from the zipper and not see a seam.

You’ll notice the new top piece will continue to flip back down across the zipper. Because of this, we will need to top stitch the coordinating print piece down, running a top stitch down the coordinating print piece, catching the zipper underneath. Once you have finished this step, make sure that your zipper works properly before continuing to the next step.  If your zipper does not work, you will need to rip out the piece that is too close to your zipper and resew it.  

You have now successfully completed the front side of your Zipper Pouch!

Take and lay one of the main print pieces with fleece side down on your work surface. Take your front vinyl piece and lay it on top, having it lay vinyl side up, lining up the bottom edges of both pieces, and centering the top piece.

We will trim the sides and top of the back piece even so it matches the same size as the front vinyl piece. 

BEFORE WE TRIM, move your zipper to the center of your front vinyl piece. We DO NOT want to lose our working zipper when we trim. BE CAREFUL NOT TO let your zipper come off the zipper teeth.  If this happens, it can be hard to put the zipper back on the zipper teeth.

Step 3: Baste the pieces together

Now that the back main print is the same size as the front vinyl piece, we need to baste these pieces together creating the pocket.

To baste the pieces together, you will want to use about a ⅛ inch seam allowance.  You will want to sew across the top of the pieces first.

Now baste the left and right sides. For best results, do the side with the open side of the zipper last.

After this process, you are one step closer to having a functional pocket!

At this point, the bottom side of the pocket piece should be the only side remaining unstitched.

Step 4: Adding the back of the pencil pouch.

Take the remaining 8“ x 11” piece of your main print to your sewing machine with fleece side down. Take the pocket piece and lay it face down on top of your main print, leaving it fleece side up, lining up the top edges together. You might notice that the bottom piece is larger and we will trim that after we’ve sewn this together. 

We will only sew on the left, right and top sides for this part, leaving the bottom side open again. With your needle in the center position, line up the edge of your pocket pieces on the right side of your foot. For best results, start with one side sewing toward the top. Once you get to the corner where they meet, leave your needle in the piece, lift your presser foot and simply shift and pivot your piece around to the front of you, and continue to sew. This will take care of backstitching. Sew down all three sides using this method. If you pivot and notice you’re not lined up correctly, pivot back and stitch until you are in the correct position. 

Let’s add our finishing touches!

We are now ready to flip our bag inside out and add the last piece of trim. 

Step 5: Flip it inside out.

Open your pocket and reach in, feel for your zipper tab, pull your top piece out towards you, flip it inside out, being mindful not to crinkle your vinyl too much. 

Once it’s inside out, you can use a turning tool such as a pencil with the eraser side and push out the corners.  This helps to push out your corners completely and flatten them.

Step 6: Press the seams with your iron being careful not to let your iron touch the vinyl as it will melt it.

Step 7: Finishing the last edge. 

Grab your last remaining folded and pressed 4”x12” piece of your corresponding print and your unfinished pencil pouch. At your sewing machine, open your folded coordinating piece and lay your zipper pouch pocket in the center. Keeping your folded piece open and raw edges towards the center of the coordinating print piece, baste the pocket piece to the coordinating strip piece across the bottom of the pocket piece. Lift your presser foot if the foot won’t go over your corner and then lower it and it should allow you to sew.  You will want to make sure and back stitch these pieces at the beginning and end of your seam. You can also stretch the zipper pouch pocket piece to make it lay flat against the coordinating print piece.

Now take the edges on both sides of the bottom corners and fold them inside and take the bottom piece and fold it over to hide all the raw edges. Wonder clips work great to hold the corners in place, otherwise use straight pins and be carful not to catch the vinyl. It may take some finagling to get your fold into a place you’re happy with. 

After you have it lined up the way you like it and have your edges hidden, line up the edge of the fabric closest to your vinyl piece under your foot nicely.  Move your needle to the left and then you can get a nice top stitch seam allowance.  Sew down the bottom of the pocket piece, removing your wonder clip as you go. Hold it well and stretch the coordinating print piece as needed to get the seam to lay flat as you go.  It is very important to back stitch at the beginning and end of this seam.  If you struggle to get your seam started through the thick material, move in a little and back stitch to the starting edge.  This will help your feed dogs grab the fabric on the bottom.

There you have it!

Just like that, you have a fully functional and cute pencil pouch! We hope you found this blog post helpful. New to sewing? Check out our YouTube channel and watch more of our tutorials featured below!

How to Sew a Pillow Case – Sewing for Beginners 

Sewing for Beginners: A Beginners Guide on How to Use a Sewing Machine

Thank you for letting us help you take your inspiration and turn it into a creation! 

The Sewing Studio Staff

The Sewing Studio is proud to offer a wide variety of Baby Lock machines! The Sewing Studio is a full-service sewing store that has been serving the Lubbock, Texas, area for nearly 40 years. We specialize in selling and servicing high-end sewing machines, but we also offer a wide range of classes for sewers of all levels and materials you might need for any type of sewing project. Give us a call at (806) 792-3863 or visit our store to learn more about what we can do for you! Thanks for reading! #SewingStudioTopTips #BabyLockEmbroideryMachines #SewWithBabyLock #IQTechnology #IQLaser #Sewing #SewingMachines #SewingStore #LubbockSewingStore #SewingStore #SewingClassesLubbock

Starting your first sewing project can seem daunting when you're new to sewing. Sometimes it isn’t easy deciding where to get started! We’re here to help! In this blog post, we’ll take you step-by-step through one of the easiest projects: Sewing a pillowcase! It isn't as difficult as you think, and this tutorial will help you get started quickly. We'll walk you through the entire process, from start to finish, and explain everything along the way. So don't wait any longer. Follow along with this step-by-step tutorial and learn how to sew a pillowcase in no time at all!

Supplies:

• ¾ a yard of fabric (main body)
• 2 inches of fabric (trim)
• ⅓ a yard of fabric (cuff)
• general purpose thread
• Rotary Cutter
• Sewing Ruler
• Cutting Mat
• Sewing Pins
• Your sewing machine, of course!

Learn how to thread and load your machine when you visit our blog or the video below!

Getting Started: 

Step 1: Take our fabrics (all 3) and cut them down to size

This step is essential as it’ll help keep your pieces nice and square.

Body Fabric - Take your body fabric and line the edge of your fabric with your ruler, allowing only the edges of your fabric to be free. Take your rotary cutter and trim the edges of your fabric to make sure your piece of fabric is perfectly square.

Trim Fabric - Repeat the same process with the trim fabric; however, trim it down to 2 inches in width. 

Cuff Fabric - Repeat the same process with the cuff fabric; however, trim it down to 10 inches in width. 

Tips for this step: Refer to your cutting mat for correct measurements. Ensuring your sewing ruler is long enough to go across the length of your project will allow you to inch forward and keep pressure, allotting a smoother cut. 

Step 2: Fold & Press (Ironing)

Folding and Pressing your pieces will help you line up the middle of your pieces every time.

Take your trim, cuff, and body fabric and individually fold them in half, and iron the middle crease down. This crease will allow you to line your pieces up. 

Making the Cuff:

Step 1:  Take your trim piece and iron it in half lengthwise so that you have a 1" piece with the nice side facing out on the top and bottom. Line up the raw edges of the trim with the top edge of the main print. 

Step 2: Take your body fabric and lay it flat on your table right side up (The nice and pretty side should be facing up). 

Step 3: Take your trim and line it up on with the raw edges of your body piece right side down (the nice side should be facing the table). 

Step 4: Take the cuff piece right side down (the nice side should be facing the table) and line it up with both the trim piece and the body fabric.

Step 5: Take several of your pins and pin the edges together, getting ready to sew.

Step 6: Take your lined and pinned fabrics to your sewing machine and sew them together, creating a nice seam. 

Step 7: After sewn your seam, take your fabrics and open the piece by taking the raw (unsewed) edge of the cuff seam and flipping it open will allow it to face right side out (the nice side will be facing up). Take that back to your iron and press it open. (it’ll look something like this)

Step 8: Take your piece (it should all be one piece now) and trim it to 40" by folding the pillowcase in half and lining up the bottom edge of the pillowcase on the mat, and lining up the fold on the zero-line of the mat. Trim down the pillow case by using the 20" on the mat. 

Hide our raw edges (burrito method)

Step 1: Unfold your project and lay it flat, facing right side up. Take the bottom edge of the body fabric and begin to roll it up toward the other edge (the cuff). 

Step 2: Take the rolled piece and find where the edge meets the roll, creating a Burrito and pin it down for you to sew.

Step 3: Take your burrito to your sewing machine and sew along the edges removing the pins as you move along.

Step 4: After you’ve sewn those edges, grab one end of your burrito, grab the outside layer, cuff it 

back, revealing the inside of the burrito and pull them out. (This will unravel the burrito showcasing your pillowcase, and revealing the cuff!)

Making the side seams (French seam)

Step 1: Take your fabric facing the wrong side up, take one edge, and bring it to the other. This will look as if you have folded your piece in half with the inside facing inwards. Pin it together. 

Step 2: Bring your piece to the sewing machine. To start, reinforce your stitches by stitching a few stitches forward and a few backward (using backstitching) and follow along the rest of the edge usually. 

Step 3: Turn your pillowcase inside out and with the wrong side facing outwards. Take the fabric back to your machine and sew along the edge within its seam allowance to hide any raw edges. Repeat the same process from Step 2. 

Time to close the pillowcase! 

Step 1: With your pillowcase still facing inside out, take the bottom of the pillowcase and switch to a zig-zag stitch on your machine. Repeat the steps from Step 2 to reinforce those stitches. 

And just like that, you’re all done! You now have a fun and functional project that allows you to add a nice splash of color to your home or bedroom! 

We hope you found this blog post helpful. New to sewing? Check out our youtube channel and watch some of our tutorials!

How to Sew a Pillow Case - Sewing for Beginners 

Sewing for Beginners: A Beginners Guide on How to Use a Sewing Machine

Thank you for letting us help you take your inspiration and turn it into a creation! 

The Sewing Studio Staff.

The Sewing Studio is proud to offer a wide variety of Baby Lock machines!The Sewing Studio is a full-service sewing store that has been serving the Lubbock, Texas, area for nearly 40 years. We specialize in selling and servicing high-end sewing machines, but we also offer a wide range of classes for sewers of all levels and materials you might need for any type of sewing project. Give us a call at (806) 792-3863 or visit our store to learn more about what we can do for you! Thanks for reading! #SewingStudioTopTips #BabyLockEmbroideryMachines #SewWithBabyLock #IQTechnology #IQLaser #Sewing #SewingMachines #SewingStore #LubbockSewingStore #SewingStore #SewingClassesLubbock

If you're new to sewing, the prospect of using a sewing machine can be pretty daunting. But don't worry - with this guide by The Sewing Studio, you'll be sewing like a pro in no time! In this post, we'll cover everything you need to know about setting up your machine, threading your needle and bobbin, and sewing your first stitch. Let's get started!

Get to Know Your Sewing Machine

If it's your first time using a sewing machine, it is important to know the name and functions of each accessory that comes with your machine. As you open the box, you’ll find your manual, your foot control, and your new sewing machine of course! 

Now let’s go over the parts shared by most sewing machines!

1. Accessory Bin

On this model, you’ll find an accessory bin that is filled with accessories your machine will come with. We’ll go over those accessories here shortly!

2. Bobbin Case

The bobbin case is the heart of any sewing machine. It holds the bobbin that will make up the underside stitch.  Many different styles exist, including front loaders or drop-in units with top-loading bobbins.

3. Presser Foot

This accessory is a removable foot that helps you sew more easily and efficiently.  It keeps the fabric you’re working on in place above the feed dogs. Feet can be replaced for different purposes such as a zipper foot being used to install a zipper and many more.

4. Needle

Your sewing machine will come equipped with a needle, however, they can be removed and replaced if ever broken.  Different projects require different types of needles, so a replacement might be needed depending on the necessities of your project. 

5. Presser Foot Lever 

This lever controls your presser foot. Lifting the lever up will allow you to slide your fabric into place, and lowering your lever to secure your fabric in place. It is important to always make sure your lever is down before you sew! It’s a very common beginner mistake! 

6. Automatic Needle Threader

Automatic Needle Threaders are more common on newer machines and are on all Baby Lock machines. The function of this mechanism is in the name and helps to thread your needle!

7. Tension Control

During a project, you may need to adjust the tension of the thread and this control will help you do that. 

8. Thread Hook

This hook appears when you move your handwheel towards yourself when you begin threading your sewing machine.

9. Tension Disk

The tension disk helps guide the thread between the spool and the winder.  It will also keep adequate tension on your tread as you sew.  If you notice that your tension is off, it is likely that you do not have your thread in the tension disk.  Try rethreading before stitching again.

10. Spool Pin

This mechanism is there to hold your thread during the sewing process and will allow your thread to move seamlessly. You will use a spool cap to hold your thread on your spool pin.

11. Bobbin Winder

This mechanism is there for you to place your empty bobbin and wind it with thread before you place it in the bobbin case. 

12. Hand Wheel

This is a larger dial that allows you to move the needle up and down freely whenever you need to.  It is located on the right side of the machine.  Always rotate the hand wheel of your machine towards you.  It is not good for the health of your machine for you to rotate it away from you when adjusting your needle.

13. Stitch Selector* 

This dial allows you to select what kind of stitch you want for your project.

14. Stitch Length Selector*

This dial allows you to select the length of your stitch for your project.

15. Stitch Width Selector*

This dial allows you to select the width of your project. 

16. Stitch Menu

This menu shows you the available stitches on your sewing machine. In order to switch your stitches you’d move your dials to the corresponding letter on this menu.

*Sewing machines are different and not all have dials to switch stitches.

17. Reverse Stitch

Sometimes you’ve got to go back! Pressing this button allows for backstitching to secure your stitches and keep seams from opening.

The Accessories

Now let’s open up that accessory bin and go over each accessory piece!

1. Spool Pin
2. 3 Bobbins
3. Extra Needles
4. Seam Ripper
5. Zipper Foot
6. Blind Hem Foot
7. Button Hole Foot
8. Small Spool Cap
9. Larger Spool Cap
10. Small Screwdriver

Now that you are more familiar with your sewing machine, let’s move on to setting it up!

Setting Up Your Sewing Machine

Let's set up your sewing machine and start stitching! The first includes putting the thread on the spool pin, threading and inserting the bobbin, and threading the needle. For a more detailed explanation of how to do this, check out this video. 

• Insert video link here - 

Wind Your Bobbin

Once your machine is set up, it's time to thread your bobbin and needle. To do this, you'll need to follow these steps: 

1. Add your spool pin to the back of your sewing machine and add your thread, and complete this by adding the small spool cap to hold your thread in place.  It’s best to use a spool cap that is about the same size as the spool of thread.

2. Place your empty bobbin on the bobbin winder and push the bobbin winder to the left and you’ll hear a click. This sound is the motor changing positions to power the winder instead of the needle.

3. Take your thread and floss it around the outside of the tension disk. 

4. Take the end of your thread and wrap it around the bobbin several times to prevent a mess of thread under your bobbin.  

5. Now slowly press your foot control and begin to wind your bobbin.  If you notice your thread nesting under your bobbin, stop winding!  You will need to remove the thread and try again.  If a bobbin is not wound properly, you will notice that your machine does not produce nice stitches when sewing.

6. When the bobbin and the motor slows down, that is when you know your bobbin is ready.

7. Now it's time to thread the bobbin. To do this, you'll need to remove the plate at the bottom of your sewing machine (also known as the bobbin case cover). Once you've removed the plate, insert the bobbin into its case (it should go in easily - if it doesn't, check that it's inserted correctly). If you struggle to insert the bobbin correctly, make sure to check your manual for additional instructions.

For a more detailed look at winding and loading your bobbin, watch this video here to learn more.

-video link- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzpdEfqugRE

Threading Your Sewing Machine

1. Ensure your bobbin winder has been pushed back to the right in order to have your motor run the needle and not the bobbin winder.

2. You’ll grab the end of your thread and take it to the thread guide located on the upper back side of your sewing machine.

3. Then you’ll take your thread down and follow the “U” shaped tracks located on the front of your sewing machine. 

4. At this point you’ll have to ensure your thread hook is up, by turning your handwheel towards yourself, placing your thread through said hook, bring your thread back down.

5. Now that your thread is close to your needle. You’ll want to make sure your presser foot is down.

6. Place the thread behind the hook located above your needle.  Making sure that your needle is in the top most position before processing.  Bring down your automatic needle threader.

7.  With your automatic needle threader down you’ll place your thread underneath the white guide on the threader on the left and bring your thread below the needle.

8. Bring the automatic needle Threader back up and watch your needle get threaded!

9. Holding on to your thread behind the presser foot, you’re going to lower the needle with the hand wheel.

10. Allow your needle to go down and up and your needle will bring up the bobbin thread for you to grab.

11. Pull your threads through and behind the presser foot.  Now you’re ready to start sewing!! 

For a closer look at this process check out this video: How to Thread the Joy

Sewing Your First Stitch 

1. Make sure your dials are set to the correct stitch pattern, lengths, and width that you want. 

2. Start by placing your fabric under the presser foot. 

3.  Lower the presser foot lever to secure the fabric in place. 

4. Turn the handwheel towards you to raise the needle. 

5.  Put your foot on the pedal, and gently press down to start sewing. The machine will start sewing automatically. 

6. To stop sewing, take your foot off the pedal. The needle will stop moving and remain in the fabric. 

7. To raise the needle, turn the handwheel towards you until it stops moving. 

8. To remove your fabric from the sewing machine, raise the presser foot lever and carefully pull the fabric towards the thread cutters on the left side. 

And that's it! You've now successfully sewn your first stitch. Congratulations!

We at The Sewing Studio hope this blog helped you get started with your first few stitches! If you liked this blog or have any questions feel free to comment below, as well as stop by The Sewing Studio, we’d be more than happy to help you get started on your sewing machine. Thank you for letting us help you take your inspiration and turn it into a creation! 

The Sewing Studio Staff.

The Sewing Studio is proud to offer a wide variety of Baby Lock Sewing Machines!

The Sewing Studio is a full-service sewing store that has been serving the Lubbock, Texas area for nearly 40 years. We specialize in selling and servicing high-end sewing machines, but we also offer a wide range of classes for sewers of all levels. Give us a call at (806) 792-3863 or visit our store to learn more about what we can do for you! Thanks for reading! #SewingStudioTopTips #BabyLockEmbroideryMachines #SewWithBabyLock #IQTechnology #IQLaser #Sewing #SewingMachines #SewingStore #LubbockSewingStore #SewingStore #SewingClassesLubbock

When it comes to Baby Lock embroidery machines, there are a lot of different models to choose from. In this blog post, we will compare three of The Sewing Studio's favorite Baby Lock embroidery machines on the market: The Baby Lock Flare, The Baby Lock Pathfinder, and The Baby Lock Meridian. We will be discussing the features and benefits of each machine, as well as giving you our opinion on which one we think is the best. Stay tuned to find out more!

Baby Lock Flare

The Baby Lock Flare is an excellent choice for those looking for an embroidery machine with many features and is very user-friendly. One of the best features of the Baby Lock Flare is that it comes with a built-in needle threader and thread cutter. This feature can save you time and frustration since you no longer have to cut your jump stitches manually or worry about them getting tangled.

Additionally, The Flare has a built-in LCD touchscreen that makes it easy to see your designs and navigate the machine's menus, which are filled with 14 Built-In Embroidery Fonts and 293 Built-In Embroidery Designs for you to choose from! You might be asking yourself, "what if I don't want to use one of those designs?" well, the Baby Lock Flare is Wi-Fi enabled, allowing you to use the Baby Lock Design Database Transfer. By using Design Database Transfer, you can easily send your designs from your computer to the machine, and you will receive notifications when new updates are available for your machine!

The Baby Lock Flare also has a 6-1/4" x 10-1/4" Embroidery Field, which is perfect for larger projects and will leave your projects looking perfect every time! Overall, we think the Baby Lock Flare is an excellent choice for those looking for an embroidery machine packed with features and very user-friendly.

Baby Lock Pathfinder

The Baby Lock Pathfinder is another excellent choice for those looking for an easy-to-use embroidery machine. One of the best features of the Baby Lock Pathfinder is that it comes with over 200 built-in embroidery designs, so you can start stitching right away without having to purchase any additional designs. Additionally, the Baby Lock Pathfinder has a large color touchscreen LCD display that makes it easy not only to see your designs but allows you to make immediate changes on the screen! With the Pathfinder, you can resize, rotate and move the design as needed!

The Baby Lock Pathfinder screams precision with the laser needle beam! The needle beam shows you exactly where the needle will drop, every time, with an LED pointer on the included embroidery foot! The Pathfinder allows you to be as precise as you please as it also comes with an exclusive Sensor Pen that will enable you to position your design exactly where you want it on your fabric! All you have to do is touch the material with the Sensor Pen, and the machine will know where to place the design.

Last but not least, the Baby Lock Pathfinder has a built-in needle threader and thread cutter, just like the Baby Lock Flare. However, the Pathfinder has an impressive embroidery field of 8" x 12", which is perfect for larger projects. Overall, we think the Baby Lock Pathfinder is a great choice for those who want more control over their embroidery projects.

Baby Lock Meridian

The Baby Lock Meridian is the perfect choice for those who are looking for an embroidery machine that has it all! Just like the Baby Lock Pathfinder, The Baby Lock Meridian also comes with a laser needle beam that'll show you exactly where the needle will drop!

The Baby Lock Meridian comes with nearly 500 built-in embroidery designs, so you will never run out of design options. Additionally, the Baby Lock Meridian has a large color touchscreen LCD display that'll allow you to draw directly on the screen and utilize its color visualizer and IQ Intuition and Designer! The Baby Lock Meridian's  Color visualizer lets you see your design's color before you stitch it out. You can choose random, vivid, gradient, or soft, and watch your design change right before your eyes!

What really sets the Meridian apart is its IQ Intuition Positioning App and IQ Designer. The IQ Intuition Positioning App allows you to take a picture of the fabric you are working on in a unique hoop and send it to the Meridian wirelessly. Once the Meridian has received it, you are then capable of positioning your design exactly where you want it! If you like that, it gets even better!

With IQ Designer, you can easily create your own embroidery designs! You can draw directly on the screen and create something new, or customize/edit any other designs you may already have uploaded to the Meridian via a USB drive. Editing is made easy with IQ Designer! If you make a mistake, or maybe you just liked the first version first, you can always go back and hit either the undo or the redo button! Want to know more about IQ Positioning? Checkout our youtube video “Bee Happy - BabyLock Meridian IQ Positioning Technology”  to learn more!

The Baby Lock Meridian boasts an impressive embroidery field of 9-1/2" X 14", which is not only perfect for larger projects but calls for less re-hooping!. Overall, we think the Baby Lock Meridian is a great choice for those who want an embroidery machine that has it all!

All of these machines are user-friendly, come with great features, and will help you create beautiful projects! We hope this blog post helped you narrow down which Baby Lock embroidery machine is the perfect choice for you and your next project! If you want to see more about all three of these machines you can go to our most recent youtube video (link) “The Sewing Studio’s Top 3 Embroidery Machines” to learn more! 

No matter which Baby Lock Embroidery Machine you choose, we know that you'll be sewing in no time! If you have any questions or would like to see these machines in person, please stop by The Sewing Studio! We would be more than happy to help you find the perfect embroidery machine for you!

Thank you for letting us help you take your inspiration and turn it into a creation! 

The Sewing Studio Staff.

The Sewing Studio is proud to offer a wide variety of Baby Lock machines!
The Sewing Studio is a full-service sewing store that has been serving the Lubbock, Texas area for nearly 40 years. We specialize in selling and servicing high-end sewing machines, but we also offer a wide range of classes for sewers of all levels and materials you might need for any type of sewing project. Give us a call at (806) 792-3863 or visit our store to learn more about what we can do for you! Thanks for reading! #SewingStudioTopTips #BabyLockEmbroideryMachines #SewWithBabyLock #IQTechnology #IQLaser #Sewing #SewingMachines #SewingStore #LubbockSewingStore #SewingStore #SewingClassesLubbock